In praise of brown food - The Inquirer and Mirror

By Sarah Leah Chase

(Jan. 27, 2022) “However comforting, a brown bowl of something doesn’t scream showstopper. Everything has to make a statement these days all the time and brown food most definitely does not do that: it gently beckons us with a whisper rather than a shout. And the truth is we need the calm it bestows.” – Nigella Lawson

Although I have recently been writing a lot about the need to cook and serve cheerfully- colorful food to counteract Nantucket’s bleak winter landscape, the truth of the matter is that at this time of the year most of us likely end up eating brown food several times a week.

The hearty and rib-sticking fare we naturally crave during the winter months translates into roasts, braises, stews and soups that are more often than not predominantly brown in color. This is why I’m delighted that British cookbook author Nigella Lawson devoted an entire chapter to “A Loving Defense of Brown Food” in her most recent cookbook, “Cook, Eat, Repeat” (HarperCollins Publishers, 2021).

Lawson goes on to blame Instagram as “the medium that has probably done the most for the rampant championing of the colorful over the drab,” and laments that pictures of food now tend to get rated for what they look like rather than what they taste like.

 

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